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PERBETE

Skincare ingredients for dark spots and hyperpigmentation

Our research data links 29 ingredients to dark spots and hyperpigmentation. Strongest evidence comes first, each with the studies behind it.

A research list, not medical advice. If a skin condition worries you, see a dermatologist.

Which ingredients have the most evidence for dark spots and hyperpigmentation?

In our data, the strongest evidence for dark spots and hyperpigmentation is behind Azelaic acid, Isobutylamido thiazolyl resorcinol, and Tranexamic acid.

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Top 5 at a glance
IngredientEvidenceStudied atRating
Azelaic acid🧪 Clinical evidenceStudy dose: not found yetModerate concern
Isobutylamido thiazolyl resorcinol🧪 Clinical evidence0.2%Low concern
Tranexamic acid🧪 Clinical evidence3%, 5%Low concern
4-Butylresorcinol🧪 Clinical evidence0.1%, 0.3%Low concern
Niacinamide🧪 Clinical evidence2-5%Low concern
  1. Azelaic acidModerate concern

    Study dose: not found yet

    • Reference: Balina and Graupe, 1991
    • Reference: DailyMed drug label, 2020

    Pregnancy: use with care · Listed in 89 products

  2. Studied at 0.2%

    • Reference: Lima et al., 2021
    • Reference: Lekhavat et al., 2026

    Pregnancy: – · Listed in 10 products

  3. Tranexamic acidLow concern

    Studied at 3%, 5%

    • Reference: Janney et al., 2019

    Pregnancy: – · Listed in 767 products

  4. Studied at 0.1%, 0.3%

    • Reference: Huh et al., 2010
    • Reference: Khemis et al., 2007

    Pregnancy: – · Listed in 39 products

  5. NiacinamideLow concern

    Studied at 2-5%

    • Korea approved amount: 2-5%

    A limit is the most a product may hold, not the amount that works.

    • Reference: Bissett et al., 2004
    • Reference: Draelos et al., 2006
    • Reference: Kimball et al., 2010
    • Reference: Korea Ministry of Government Legislation, 2023

    Pregnancy: – · Listed in 12,904 products

  6. Acetyl Glucosamine

    Studied at 2%

    • Reference: Bissett et al., 2007
    • Reference: Kimball et al., 2010

    Pregnancy: – · Listed in 603 products

  7. Studied at 2%

    Vehicle-controlled in solar lentigines of the hands; the same effect cannot be promised for facial melasma and freckles.

    • Reference: Katoulis et al., 2010

    Listed in 12 products

  8. L-Ascorbic AcidLow concern

    Ascorbic Acid

    Studied at 5%

    • Reference: Humbert et al., 2003
    • Reference: Espinal-Perez et al., 2004
    • Reference: Murray et al., 2008

    Pregnancy: – · Listed in 2,002 products

  9. Oxidized Glutathione

    Studied at 2%

    • Reference: Watanabe et al., 2014

    Pregnancy: – · Listed in 1 product

  10. Studied at 10% (uncontrolled)

    • Korea approved amount: 3%

    A limit is the most a product may hold, not the amount that works.

    • Reference: Kameyama et al., 1996
    • Reference: Korea Ministry of Government Legislation, 2023

    Pregnancy: – · Listed in 252 products

  11. Studied only mixed with other actives

    A small solar-lentigo study. The ingredient composition is unclear, so it cannot be broken down into the effects of pure AG and arginine separately.

    • Reference: Takada et al., 2024

    Not in our product list yet

  12. Kojic acidModerate concern

    Studied at 1-2%

    • EU limit: up to 1% (face and hands)

    A limit is the most a product may hold, not the amount that works.

    • Reference: Deo et al., 2013
    • Reference: Lim, 1999
    • Reference: European Union

    Pregnancy: – · Listed in 96 products

  13. ArbutinModerate concern

    Study dose: not found yet

    • Korea approved amount: 2-5%
    • EU limit: up to 7% (face)

    A limit is the most a product may hold, not the amount that works.

    • Reference: Korea Ministry of Government Legislation, 2023
    • Reference: European Union

    Pregnancy: – · Listed in 478 products

  14. Study dose: not found yet

    • Korea approved amount: 2%

    A limit is the most a product may hold, not the amount that works.

    • Reference: Korea Ministry of Government Legislation, 2023
    • Reference: Takada et al., 2024

    Pregnancy: – · Listed in 784 products

  15. CysteamineLow concern

    Study dose: not found yet

    • Reference: Mansouri et al., 2015

    Pregnancy: advised to avoid · Not in our product list yet

  16. 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

    Study dose: not found yet

    • Korea approved amount: 1-2%

    A limit is the most a product may hold, not the amount that works.

    • Reference: Korea Ministry of Government Legislation, 2023

    Pregnancy: – · Listed in 651 products

  17. alpha-ArbutinModerate concern

    Study dose: not found yet

    • EU limit: up to 2% (face)
    • EU limit: up to 0.5% (body)

    A limit is the most a product may hold, not the amount that works.

    • Reference: European Union

    Pregnancy: – · Listed in 224 products

  18. Study dose: not found yet

    • Korea approved amount: 2%

    A limit is the most a product may hold, not the amount that works.

    • Reference: Korea Ministry of Government Legislation, 2023

    Pregnancy: – · Listed in 345 products

  19. GlabridinLow concern

    Study dose: not found yet

    • Reference: Cantelli et al., 2020
    • Reference: Korea Ministry of Government Legislation, 2023

    Listed in 2 products

  20. Phenylethyl Resorcinol

    Study dose: not found yet

    • Reference: Chatterjee et al., 2021

    Listed in 36 products

  21. Studied only mixed with other actives

    • Reference: Fitzpatrick and Rostan, 2002

    Pregnancy: – · Listed in 300 products

  22. Hexylresorcinol

    Study dose: not found yet

    • Reference: Shariff et al., 2022

    Listed in 57 products

  23. LiquiritinLow concern

    Study dose: not found yet

    • Reference: Amer and Metwalli, 2000

    Not in our product list yet

  24. Cysteamine HCl

    Study dose: not found yet

    • Reference: Mansouri et al., 2015

    Pregnancy: advised to avoid · Listed in 1 product

  25. Nonapeptide-1Low concern

    Study dose: not found yet

    • Reference: Chatterjee et al., 2021

    Pregnancy: – · Listed in 648 products

– = no pregnancy research data yet

Which ingredients for dark spots and hyperpigmentation need a doctor?

4 ingredients here are prescription-only or for in-clinic use in the US. We list them so you can look them up; they never go into a PERBETE routine.

  1. HydroquinoneHigh concernPrescription only (US)

    Studied at 3-4%

    • Reference: Balina and Graupe, 1991
    • Reference: Espinal-Perez et al., 2004
    • Reference: Janney et al., 2019
    • Reference: Lim, 1999

    Pregnancy: advised to avoid · Listed in 1 product

  2. MequinolModerate concernPrescription only (US)

    p-Hydroxyanisole

    Studied only mixed with other actives

    Evidence comes from a combination drug for solar lentigines (sun spots). This row uses only the result of the mequinol 2% + tretinoin 0.01% combination. The same trials also had a group for each ingredient alone and a vehicle group, and the combination did better than each alone (on the face in one trial there was no clear difference from tretinoin alone).

    • Reference: Fleischer et al., 2000

    Pregnancy: – · Not in our product list yet

  3. All-trans-Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin)High concernPrescription only (US)

    Retinoic Acid

    Studied at 0.1%

    Regulates epidermal turnover, including pigment. Irritation needs to be managed according to prescription and formulation.

    • Reference: Bulengo-Ransby et al., 1993
    • Reference: Fleischer et al., 2000

    Pregnancy: advised to avoid · Not in our product list yet

  4. Fluocinolone AcetonideHigh concernPrescription only (US)

    Studied only mixed with other actives

    Seen as a supporting part of short-term melasma combination treatment. This steroid is not recommended as a stand-alone brightening ingredient or an everyday long-term soothing one.

    • Reference: DailyMed, 2024

    Not in our product list yet

– = no pregnancy research data yet

Which ingredients for dark spots and hyperpigmentation are advised against in pregnancy?

In our data, pregnancy guidance advises avoiding Hydroquinone, All-trans-Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin), Cysteamine, and Cysteamine hydrochloride. Each ingredient page names the source.

Use with care (the reason is on each ingredient page): Azelaic acid.

Pregnant or breastfeeding? Check new products with your doctor or midwife.

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