Skincare ingredients for wrinkles and firmness
Our research data links 32 ingredients to wrinkles and firmness. Strongest evidence comes first, each with the studies behind it.
A research list, not medical advice. If a skin condition worries you, see a dermatologist.
Which ingredients have the most evidence for wrinkles and firmness?
In our data, the strongest evidence for wrinkles and firmness is behind All-trans-Retinol, L-Ascorbic Acid, and Niacinamide.
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| Ingredient | Evidence | Studied at | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|
| All-trans-Retinol | 🧪 Clinical evidence | 0.075%, 0.4% | Moderate concern |
| L-Ascorbic Acid | 🧪 Clinical evidence | 5% | Low concern |
| Niacinamide | 🧪 Clinical evidence | 2-5% | Low concern |
| All-trans-Retinal (Retinaldehyde) | 🧪 Clinical evidence | 0.05%, 0.1% | Moderate concern |
| Bakuchiol | 🧪 Clinical evidence | 0.5% | Low concern |
- All-trans-RetinolModerate concern
Retinol
Studied at 0.075%, 0.4%
- Korea approved amount: about 0.075%
A limit is the most a product may hold, not the amount that works.
- Reference: Kafi et al., 2007
- Reference: Kikuchi et al., 2009
- Reference: Korea Ministry of Government Legislation, 2023
Pregnancy: advised to avoid · Listed in 752 products
- L-Ascorbic AcidLow concern
Ascorbic Acid
Studied at 5%
- Reference: Humbert et al., 2003
- Reference: Espinal-Perez et al., 2004
- Reference: Murray et al., 2008
Pregnancy: – · Listed in 2,002 products
- NiacinamideLow concern
Studied at 2-5%
- Korea approved amount: 2-5%
A limit is the most a product may hold, not the amount that works.
- Reference: Bissett et al., 2004
- Reference: Draelos et al., 2006
- Reference: Kimball et al., 2010
- Reference: Korea Ministry of Government Legislation, 2023
Pregnancy: – · Listed in 12,904 products
- All-trans-Retinal (Retinaldehyde)Moderate concern
Retinal
Studied at 0.05%, 0.1%
- Reference: Kwon et al., 2018
Pregnancy: advised to avoid · Listed in 192 products
- BakuchiolLow concern
Studied at 0.5%
- Reference: Dhaliwal et al., 2019
Pregnancy: – · Listed in 576 products
- Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4Low concern
Studied at 0.0003%
- Reference: Robinson et al., 2005
Pregnancy: – · Listed in 1,905 products
- Sodium Acetylated HyaluronateLow concern
Studied at 0.2%, 0.1%
- Reference: Meunier et al., 2022
- Reference: CIR, 2023
Pregnancy: – · Listed in 3,685 products
- Hyaluronan 130 kDaLow concern
Studied at 0.1%
Wrinkle depth improved in a 130 kDa study. This falls in the medium-molecular-weight range of this document.
- Reference: Pavicic et al., 2011
Not in our product list yet
- Hyaluronan 50 kDaLow concern
Studied at 0.1%
Wrinkle depth around the eyes improved in a 50 kDa study. It does not mean removal of deep expression lines.
- Reference: Pavicic et al., 2011
Not in our product list yet
- AdenosineLow concern
Study dose: not found yet
- Korea approved amount: 0.04%
A limit is the most a product may hold, not the amount that works.
- Reference: Korea Ministry of Government Legislation, 2023
Pregnancy: – · Listed in 11,675 products
Studied at 0.01%
- Reference: Campiche et al., 2020
Pregnancy: – · Listed in 253 products
- Oxidized Glutathione (GSSG)Low concern
Oxidized Glutathione
Studied at 2%
- Reference: Watanabe et al., 2014
Pregnancy: – · Listed in 1 product
- MadecassosideLow concern
Studied only mixed with other actives
- Reference: Haftek et al., 2008
Pregnancy: – · Listed in 3,532 products
- Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateLow concern
Studied only mixed with other actives
- Reference: Fitzpatrick and Rostan, 2002
Pregnancy: – · Listed in 300 products
- Acetyl hexapeptide-8Moderate concern
Study dose: not found yet
- Reference: Wang et al., 2013
- Reference: Henseler, 2023
- Reference: FDA GSRS
Pregnancy: – · Listed in 2,642 products
Copper Tripeptide-1
Study dose: not found yet
Badenhorst 2016 (40 women aged 40-65, one side of the face against the other, twice a day for 8 weeks): a serum with GHK-Cu in a nano-carrier cut wrinkle volume 24-26% from the start, and the same serum without GHK-Cu cut it about 15% (the authors report a 55.8% relative difference). The amount of GHK-Cu in the serum is not stated in the paper, and the maker of the serum paid for the study. Wang 2026: 32 people used a cream with only 0.2% GHK-Cu and 5% ferment extract for 56 days; forehead lines fell 16.75%, but there was no comparison group and the share of each ingredient cannot be separated. Miller 2006 (13 people after laser treatment, with and without GHK-Cu) found no measurable difference in wrinkles.
- Reference: Badenhorst et al., 2016
- Reference: Wang et al., 2026
- Reference: Miller et al., 2006
Pregnancy: – · Listed in 2,137 products
- Hydroxypinacolone 9-cis retinoateModerate concern
Studied at 0.03%
- Reference: Hu et al., 2026
Pregnancy: advised to avoid · Not in our product list yet
- Sodium DNA / PolydeoxyribonucleotideLow concern
Sodium DNA
Studied at 0.1% (uncontrolled)
Ye 2026 (31 women aged 35-55, one side of the face against the other): an eye cream with 0.1% PDRN from salmon (molecule size up to 850 kDa) was applied twice a day for 28 days. Crow's-feet wrinkle area and number fell about 20-23%; the cream with 0.1% retinol on the other side fell about 6-7%. There was no group with a plain cream, and the maker supplied the test material. Other areas of the face, other kinds of PDRN (plant or microbe) and other strengths were not tested. Evidence from injected PDRN is left out.
- Reference: Ye et al., 2026
Pregnancy: – · Listed in 1,206 products
- Hydroxypinacolone retinoateModerate concern
Study dose: not found yet
- Reference: Wang et al., 2023
Pregnancy: advised to avoid · Listed in 124 products
- Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Low concern
Study dose: not found yet
- Reference: Li et al., 2023
Pregnancy: – · Listed in 1,680 products
- Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Low concern
Study dose: not found yet
- Reference: Li et al., 2023
Pregnancy: – · Listed in 1,254 products
- Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateLow concern
Study dose: not found yet
- Korea approved amount: 2%
A limit is the most a product may hold, not the amount that works.
- Reference: Korea Ministry of Government Legislation, 2023
Pregnancy: – · Listed in 345 products
- Hyaluronan 2000 kDaLow concern
Studied at 0.1%
A supporting role through surface hydration. No significant improvement in wrinkle depth was confirmed for this MW.
- Reference: Pavicic et al., 2011
Not in our product list yet
- Hyaluronan 300 kDaLow concern
Studied at 0.1%
Separate the study's moisturizing and elasticity measures from the wrinkle depth result. Improvement in wrinkle depth for this MW was not confirmed.
- Reference: Pavicic et al., 2011
Not in our product list yet
- Hyaluronan 800 kDaLow concern
Studied at 0.1%
A moisturizing and elasticity study. No significant improvement in wrinkle depth was confirmed for this MW.
- Reference: Pavicic et al., 2011
Not in our product list yet
- Methoxy PEG-12 RetinamideModerate concern
Study dose: not found yet
- Korea approved amount: 0.05-0.2%
A limit is the most a product may hold, not the amount that works.
- Reference: Korea Ministry of Government Legislation, 2023
Pregnancy: advised to avoid · Listed in 9 products
- Retinyl palmitateModerate concern
Study dose: not found yet
- Korea approved amount: about 0.55%
A limit is the most a product may hold, not the amount that works.
- Reference: Korea Ministry of Government Legislation, 2023
Pregnancy: advised to avoid · Listed in 594 products
sh-Oligopeptide-1
Study dose: not found yet
- Reference: Shin et al., 2023
- Reference: Miller-Kobisher et al., 2021
Pregnancy: – · Listed in 1,297 products
- Retinyl acetateModerate concern
Study dose: not found yet
- Reference: Zasada and Budzisz, 2019
- Reference: Mukherjee et al., 2006
- Reference: Sorg et al., 2006
Pregnancy: advised to avoid · Listed in 20 products
- Retinyl propionateModerate concern
Study dose: not found yet
- Reference: Green et al., 1998
- Reference: Wang et al., 2023
Pregnancy: advised to avoid · Listed in 10 products
– = no pregnancy research data yet
Which ingredients for wrinkles and firmness need a doctor?
2 ingredients here are prescription-only or for in-clinic use in the US. We list them so you can look them up; they never go into a PERBETE routine.
Retinoic Acid
Studied at 0.025-0.1%
- Reference: Griffiths et al., 1995
Pregnancy: advised to avoid · Not in our product list yet
Studied at 0.1%
Wrinkles, pigment and texture improved in a 568-person, 24-week study with a comparison cream. This is a rough comparison across papers; it does not show that it beats other ingredients head to head.
- Reference: Phillips et al., 2002
Pregnancy: advised to avoid · Not in our product list yet
Which ingredients for wrinkles and firmness are advised against in pregnancy?
In our data, pregnancy guidance advises avoiding All-trans-Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin), Tazarotene, All-trans-Retinol, All-trans-Retinal (Retinaldehyde), Hydroxypinacolone 9-cis retinoate, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Methoxy PEG-12 Retinamide, Retinyl palmitate, Retinyl acetate, and Retinyl propionate. Each ingredient page names the source.
Pregnant or breastfeeding? Check new products with your doctor or midwife.
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