Skincare ingredients for oily skin
Our research data links 20 ingredients to oily skin. Strongest evidence comes first, each with the studies behind it.
A research list, not medical advice. If a skin condition worries you, see a dermatologist.
Which ingredients have the most evidence for oily skin?
In our data, the strongest evidence for oily skin is behind Niacinamide, (−)-Epigallocatechin-3-O-gallate (EGCG), and Gluconolactone.
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| Ingredient | Evidence | Studied at | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|
| Niacinamide | 🧪 Clinical evidence | sebum clinical 2% | Low concern |
| (−)-Epigallocatechin-3-O-gallate (EGCG) | 🧪 Clinical evidence | acne clinical 1%, 5% | Low concern |
| Gluconolactone | 🧪 Clinical evidence | professional peel 10%, 30% | Low concern |
| Retinyl Retinoate | 🧪 Clinical evidence | clinical 0.05%, split-face 8 weeks | Moderate concern |
| Azelaic acid | 🧪 Clinical evidence | melasma 20%; papulopustular rosacea 15% | Moderate concern |
- NiacinamideLow concern
Studied at sebum clinical 2%
SER fell in the Japanese group; distinguish from the Caucasian group, where CSL fell and SER was not significant. Superiority of the high 10% concentration not demonstrated.
- Reference: Bissett et al., 2004
- Reference: Draelos et al., 2006
- Reference: Kimball et al., 2010
- Reference: Korea Ministry of Government Legislation, 2023
Pregnancy: not rated yet · Listed in 8,542 products
- (−)-Epigallocatechin-3-O-gallate (EGCG)Low concern
Epigallocatechin Gallate
Studied at acne clinical 1%, 5%
Sebocyte AMPK/SREBP-1 mechanism and human acne studies. A standard % for human sebum output is N/A.
- Reference: Yoon et al., 2013
Pregnancy: not rated yet · Listed in 79 products
- GluconolactoneLow concern
Studied at professional peel 10%, 30%
Jarzabek-Perz et al. 2023: sebumeter sebum fell significantly after 10% and 30% gluconolactone peels. Based on professional procedures (peels), so the effect size may differ from home-care leave-on products.
- Reference: Jarzabek-Perz et al., 2023
Pregnancy: not rated yet · Listed in 1,364 products
- Retinyl RetinoateModerate concern
Studied at clinical 0.05%, split-face 8 weeks
Kim et al. 2013: sebum was significantly lower than on the placebo side at week 8 (P<0.05), seen together with a fall in lesion counts. Small sample (n=15).
- Reference: Kim et al., 2013
Pregnancy: advised to avoid · Listed in 6 products
- Azelaic acidModerate concern
Studied at melasma 20%; papulopustular rosacea 15%
- Reference: Balina and Graupe, 1991
- Reference: DailyMed drug label, 2020
Pregnancy: not advised against on skin · Listed in 86 products
- BentoniteLow concern
Studied at N/A
The same study as Zhang 2023 above. Bentonite is a swelling clay with a large surface area, so in theory it adsorbs more than kaolin (general mineralogy, not a clinical comparison of the two clays). Because it is a physical adsorption effect, how long it lasts depends on repeated use.
- Reference: Zhang et al., 2023
Pregnancy: not rated yet · Listed in 363 products
- Licochalcone ALow concern
Studied at used within a combination formulation (including decanediol, L-carnitine, salicylic acid); stand-alone leave-on concentration N/A
Kulthanan et al. 2020 double-blind placebo-controlled: sebumeter sebum at week 12 was significantly lower than in controls. However, it was a clinical study of a moisturizer containing decanediol, L-carnitine and salicylic acid together, not licochalcone A alone, so the stand-alone contribution is not separated.
- Reference: Kulthanan et al., 2020
Not in our product list yet
- Salicylic acidModerate concern
Studied at general drug 0.5-2%; professional peel 30%
The focus is on improving oil-soluble keratin and follicular plugging, rather than suppressing sebaceous-gland production itself.
- Reference: Dayal et al., 2020
- Reference: American Academy of Dermatology, 2024
Pregnancy: use with care · Listed in 1,555 products
- KaolinLow concern
Studied at N/A
Zhang et al. 2023 (n=60): sebum fell 68.97% right after application and a 24-30% reduction was kept with 1-4 weeks of repeated use (all p<0.001). A combined mud pack containing kaolin, bentonite and others, so the stand-alone contribution of kaolin is not separated. Because it is physical adsorption the immediate effect is large, which differs from biological suppression that reduces the secretion itself.
- Reference: Zhang et al., 2023
Pregnancy: not rated yet · Listed in 784 products
- trans-ResveratrolLow concern
Resveratrol
Studied at 1% topical gel, 60-day split-face
Fabbrocini et al. 2011, single-blind split-face (n=20): the GAGS acne severity score fell far more than on the placebo side (53.75% vs 6.10%). Sebum output was not measured directly with a sebumeter; these are lesion and severity measures. Separately, human SZ95 sebocyte experiments give a mechanism basis of suppressing lipogenesis pathways such as SREBP-1.
- Reference: Fabbrocini et al., 2011
Pregnancy: not rated yet · Listed in 208 products
- AdapaleneModerate concern
Studied at drug 0.1%, 0.3%
- Reference: American Academy of Dermatology, 2024
Pregnancy: advised to avoid · Listed in 3 products
- Phytosphingosine hydrochlorideLow concern
Studied at clinical 0.2%; small study
- Reference: Pavicic et al., 2007
Pregnancy: not rated yet · Not in our product list yet
- All-trans-RetinolModerate concern
Retinol
Studied at clinical 0.075%, 0.4%; Korean notice 0.075% equivalent
- Reference: Kafi et al., 2007
- Reference: Kikuchi et al., 2009
- Reference: Korea Ministry of Government Legislation, 2023
Pregnancy: advised to avoid · Listed in 586 products
- Cyclooctasulfur (S8; precipitated sulfur)Low concern
Sulfur
Studied at N/A; drug standard varies by formulation
Gupta & Nicol 2004 review: sulfur + sulfacetamide combination formulations improve seborrhoea (excess sebum). A modern sebumeter clinical study of sulfur alone was not found; most evidence is for combination formulations.
- Reference: Gupta and Nicol, 2004
Listed in 40 products
- Zinc PCALow concern
Studied at N/A
- Reference: Piquero-Casals et al., 2019
Pregnancy: not rated yet · Listed in 341 products
- Glycolic acidModerate concern
Studied at clinical 8% leave-on (separate) / professional peel (the original paper is a peel)
Kaminaka et al. 2014 split-face RCT (moderate acne): sebum fell on both sides at weeks 8 and 10, but there was no significant difference between the glycolic acid side and the placebo side. The effect of the peel procedure itself and the ingredient effect were not separated, so a low score was given - honest evidence that an effect was not clearly shown.
- Reference: Kaminaka et al., 2014
Pregnancy: not advised against on skin · Listed in 665 products
- Piroctone olamineModerate concern
Studied at N/A
- Reference: Youn et al., 2016
Listed in 48 products
Which ingredients for oily skin need a doctor?
3 ingredients here are prescription-only or for in-clinic use in the US. We list them so you can look them up; they never go into a PERBETE routine.
Studied at drug 1%
Topical androgen receptor inhibition and acne clinical studies. The exact rate of sebum output reduction needs separate verification.
- Reference: DailyMed drug label, 2025
- Reference: American Academy of Dermatology, 2024
Pregnancy: use with care · Not in our product list yet
Studied at clinical 0.045% lotion
Tanghetti et al. 2023, pooled analysis of two 12-week vehicle-controlled studies, oily-skin group (n=793): lowered the self-rated 'skin shine' score more than placebo. Sebum output was not measured directly with a sebumeter; it is a self-reported measure.
- Reference: Tanghetti et al., 2023
Pregnancy: advised to avoid · Not in our product list yet
Spironolactone
Studied at clinical 5% gel/cream
In theory an antiandrogen mechanism is expected to reduce sebum production, but human sebumeter measurements are mixed. Afzali 2012 (n=78) reported a significant reduction in total lesion count but the severity index was not significant, and the Ayatollahi 2021 pilot (n=15) found sebum no different from placebo at 4 and 8 weeks by sebumeter (P>.05). The sebum-suppressing effect of oral spironolactone does not seem to carry over to topical formulations.
- Reference: Afzali et al., 2012
- Reference: Ayatollahi et al., 2021
Pregnancy: not rated yet · Not in our product list yet
Which ingredients for oily skin are advised against in pregnancy?
In our data, pregnancy guidance advises avoiding Retinyl Retinoate, Tazarotene, Adapalene, and All-trans-Retinol. Each ingredient page names the source.
Use with care (the reason is on each ingredient page): Clascoterone and Salicylic acid.
Pregnant or breastfeeding? Check new products with your doctor or midwife.
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