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PERBETE

Skincare ingredients for oily skin

Our research data links 20 ingredients to oily skin. Strongest evidence comes first, each with the studies behind it.

A research list, not medical advice. If a skin condition worries you, see a dermatologist.

Which ingredients have the most evidence for oily skin?

In our data, the strongest evidence for oily skin is behind Niacinamide, (−)-Epigallocatechin-3-O-gallate (EGCG), and Gluconolactone.

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Top 5 at a glance
IngredientEvidenceStudied atRating
Niacinamide🧪 Clinical evidence2%Low concern
(−)-Epigallocatechin-3-O-gallate (EGCG)🧪 Clinical evidence1%, 5%Low concern
Gluconolactone🧪 Clinical evidence10% (professional peel), 30% (professional peel)Low concern
Retinyl Retinoate🧪 Clinical evidence0.05%Moderate concern
Azelaic acid🧪 Clinical evidenceStudy dose: not found yetModerate concern
  1. NiacinamideLow concern

    Studied at 2%

    SER fell in the Japanese group; distinguish from the Caucasian group, where CSL fell and SER was not significant. Superiority of the high 10% concentration not demonstrated.

    • Reference: Bissett et al., 2004
    • Reference: Draelos et al., 2006
    • Reference: Kimball et al., 2010
    • Reference: Korea Ministry of Government Legislation, 2023

    Pregnancy: – · Listed in 12,904 products

  2. Epigallocatechin Gallate

    Studied at 1%, 5%

    Sebocyte AMPK/SREBP-1 mechanism and human acne studies. A standard % for human sebum output is N/A.

    • Reference: Yoon et al., 2013

    Pregnancy: – · Listed in 103 products

  3. GluconolactoneLow concern

    Studied at 10% (professional peel), 30% (professional peel)

    Jarzabek-Perz et al. 2023: sebumeter sebum fell significantly after 10% and 30% gluconolactone peels. Based on professional procedures (peels), so the effect size may differ from home-care leave-on products.

    • Reference: Jarzabek-Perz et al., 2023

    Pregnancy: – · Listed in 1,931 products

  4. Retinyl RetinoateModerate concern

    Studied at 0.05%

    Kim et al. 2013: sebum was significantly lower than on the placebo side at week 8 (P<0.05), seen together with a fall in lesion counts. Small sample (n=15).

    • Reference: Kim et al., 2013

    Pregnancy: advised to avoid · Listed in 9 products

  5. Azelaic acidModerate concern

    Study dose: not found yet

    • Reference: Balina and Graupe, 1991
    • Reference: DailyMed drug label, 2020

    Pregnancy: use with care · Listed in 89 products

  6. BentoniteLow concern

    Study dose: not found yet

    The same study as Zhang 2023 above. Bentonite is a swelling clay with a large surface area, so in theory it adsorbs more than kaolin (general mineralogy, not a clinical comparison of the two clays). Because it is a physical adsorption effect, how long it lasts depends on repeated use.

    • Reference: Zhang et al., 2023

    Pregnancy: – · Listed in 463 products

  7. Licochalcone ALow concern

    Study dose: not found yet

    Kulthanan et al. 2020 double-blind placebo-controlled: sebumeter sebum at week 12 was significantly lower than in controls. However, it was a clinical study of a moisturizer containing decanediol, L-carnitine and salicylic acid together, not licochalcone A alone, so the stand-alone contribution is not separated.

    • Reference: Kulthanan et al., 2020

    Not in our product list yet

  8. Salicylic acidModerate concern

    Studied at 30% (professional peel)

    The focus is on improving oil-soluble keratin and follicular plugging, rather than suppressing sebaceous-gland production itself.

    • Reference: Dayal et al., 2020
    • Reference: American Academy of Dermatology, 2024

    Pregnancy: use with care · Listed in 2,052 products

  9. KaolinLow concern

    Study dose: not found yet

    Zhang et al. 2023 (n=60): sebum fell 68.97% right after application and a 24-30% reduction was kept with 1-4 weeks of repeated use (all p<0.001). A combined mud pack containing kaolin, bentonite and others, so the stand-alone contribution of kaolin is not separated. Because it is physical adsorption the immediate effect is large, which differs from biological suppression that reduces the secretion itself.

    • Reference: Zhang et al., 2023

    Pregnancy: – · Listed in 994 products

  10. Resveratrol

    Study dose: not found yet

    Fabbrocini et al. 2011, single-blind split-face (n=20): the GAGS acne severity rating fell far more than on the placebo side (53.75% vs 6.10%). Sebum output was not measured directly with a sebumeter; these are lesion and severity measures. A cell-level mechanism is not shown here because no source is linked to this row.

    • Reference: Fabbrocini et al., 2011

    Pregnancy: – · Listed in 294 products

  11. AdapaleneModerate concern

    Study dose: not found yet

    • Reference: American Academy of Dermatology, 2024

    Pregnancy: advised to avoid · Listed in 7 products

  12. Studied at 0.2%

    • Reference: Pavicic et al., 2007

    Pregnancy: – · Not in our product list yet

  13. All-trans-RetinolModerate concern

    Retinol

    Studied at 0.075%, 0.4%

    • Korea approved amount: about 0.075%

    A limit is the most a product may hold, not the amount that works.

    • Reference: Kafi et al., 2007
    • Reference: Kikuchi et al., 2009
    • Reference: Korea Ministry of Government Legislation, 2023

    Pregnancy: advised to avoid · Listed in 752 products

  14. Sulfur

    Study dose: not found yet

    Gupta & Nicol 2004 review: sulfur + sulfacetamide combination formulations improve seborrhoea (excess sebum). A modern sebumeter clinical study of sulfur alone was not found; most evidence is for combination formulations.

    • Reference: Gupta and Nicol, 2004

    Listed in 71 products

  15. Zinc PCALow concern

    Study dose: not found yet

    • Reference: Piquero-Casals et al., 2019

    Pregnancy: – · Listed in 437 products

  16. Glycolic acidModerate concern

    Studied at 8%

    Kaminaka et al. 2014 split-face RCT (moderate acne): sebum fell on both sides at weeks 8 and 10, but there was no significant difference between the glycolic acid side and the placebo side. The effect of the peel procedure itself and the ingredient effect were not separated. This shows that an effect was not clearly shown.

    • Reference: Kaminaka et al., 2014

    Pregnancy: not advised against on skin · Listed in 843 products

  17. Piroctone olamineModerate concern

    Study dose: not found yet

    • Reference: Youn et al., 2016

    Listed in 62 products

– = no pregnancy research data yet

Which ingredients for oily skin need a doctor?

3 ingredients here are prescription-only or for in-clinic use in the US. We list them so you can look them up; they never go into a PERBETE routine.

  1. ClascoteroneHigh concernPrescription only (US)

    Study dose: not found yet

    Topical androgen receptor inhibition and acne clinical studies. The exact rate of sebum output reduction needs separate verification.

    • Reference: DailyMed drug label, 2025
    • Reference: American Academy of Dermatology, 2024

    Pregnancy: use with care · Not in our product list yet

  2. TazaroteneHigh concernPrescription only (US)

    Studied at 0.045%

    Tanghetti et al. 2023, a pooled re-analysis of two 12-week vehicle-controlled trials in people with moderate to severe acne who called their skin oily (n=793). More than two thirds of those using the tazarotene 0.045% lotion reported less skin oiliness by week 12. The abstract does not say whether oiliness fell more than with the vehicle lotion. Oiliness was asked in a questionnaire; sebum output was not measured directly with a sebumeter.

    • Reference: Tanghetti et al., 2023

    Pregnancy: advised to avoid · Not in our product list yet

  3. Spironolactone (topical)High concernPrescription only (US)

    Spironolactone

    Studied at 5%

    In theory an antiandrogen mechanism is expected to reduce sebum production, but human sebumeter measurements are mixed. Afzali 2012 (n=78) reported a significant reduction in total lesion count but the severity index was not significant, and the Ayatollahi 2021 pilot (n=15) found sebum no different from placebo at 4 and 8 weeks by sebumeter (P>.05). The sebum-suppressing effect of oral spironolactone does not seem to carry over to topical formulations.

    • Reference: Afzali et al., 2012
    • Reference: Ayatollahi et al., 2021

    Pregnancy: – · Not in our product list yet

– = no pregnancy research data yet

Which ingredients for oily skin are advised against in pregnancy?

In our data, pregnancy guidance advises avoiding Retinyl Retinoate, Tazarotene, Adapalene, and All-trans-Retinol. Each ingredient page names the source.

Use with care (the reason is on each ingredient page): Clascoterone, Azelaic acid, and Salicylic acid.

Pregnant or breastfeeding? Check new products with your doctor or midwife.

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