Skincare ingredients for acne scars and marks

Our research data links 20 ingredients to acne scars and marks. Strongest evidence comes first, each with the studies behind it.

A research list, not medical advice. If a skin condition worries you, see a dermatologist.

Which ingredients have the most evidence for acne scars and marks?

In our data, the strongest evidence for acne scars and marks is behind Azelaic acid, Tranexamic acid, and 4-Butylresorcinol.

  1. Azelaic acidModerate hazard

    Studied at PIH/PIE 15% gel; PIH comparison 20% cream

    15% 12-week placebo-controlled study and a 20% active-comparison dataset. Consider the PIE and PIH outcome measures and natural improvement in controls together.

    • Reference: Shucheng et al., 2024
    • Reference: Sobhan et al., 2023

    Pregnancy: considered fine · Listed in 69 products

  2. Tranexamic acidLow hazard

    Studied at post-acne PIH clinical 5% solution

    Compared with 20% azelaic acid in a 12-week single-blind study, 30 people each completed. Both groups improved; with no placebo, natural resolution and the absolute effect cannot be fully separated.

    • Reference: Sobhan et al., 2023

    Pregnancy: not enough data · Listed in 165 products

  3. Studied at PIH stand-alone effective concentration N/A; studies for other pigment disorders are in sections 2 and 4

    Mainly extrapolated from other pigment disorders. The stand-alone effective range for PIH is N/A, and this differs from evidence for restoring scar structure.

    • Reference: Huh et al., 2010
    • Reference: Khemis et al., 2007

    Pregnancy: not enough data · Listed in 10 products

  4. L-Ascorbic AcidLow hazard

    Ascorbic Acid

    Studied at PIH stand-alone effective concentration N/A; studies for other pigment disorders are in sections 2 and 4

    Mainly extrapolated from other pigment disorders. The stand-alone effective range for PIH is N/A, and this differs from evidence for restoring scar structure.

    • Reference: Humbert et al., 2003
    • Reference: Espinal-Perez et al., 2004
    • Reference: Murray et al., 2008

    Pregnancy: not enough data · Listed in 609 products

  5. Studied at PIH stand-alone effective concentration N/A; studies for other pigment disorders are in sections 2 and 4

    Mainly extrapolated from other pigment disorders. The stand-alone effective range for PIH is N/A, and this differs from evidence for restoring scar structure.

    • Reference: Lima et al., 2021
    • Reference: Lekhavat et al., 2026

    Pregnancy: not enough data · Listed in 4 products

  6. Acetyl Glucosamine

    Studied at PIH stand-alone effective concentration N/A; studies for other pigment disorders are in sections 2 and 4

    Mainly extrapolated from other pigment disorders. The stand-alone effective range for PIH is N/A, and this differs from evidence for restoring scar structure.

    • Reference: Bissett et al., 2007
    • Reference: Kimball et al., 2010

    Pregnancy: not enough data · Listed in 158 products

  7. NiacinamideLow hazard

    Studied at PIH stand-alone range N/A; general pigment and barrier clinical 2-5%

    Mainly extrapolated from other pigment disorders. The stand-alone effective range for PIH is N/A, and this differs from evidence for restoring scar structure.

    • Reference: Bissett et al., 2004
    • Reference: Draelos et al., 2006
    • Reference: Kimball et al., 2010
    • Reference: Korea Ministry of Government Legislation et al., 2023

    Pregnancy: not enough data · Listed in 2,529 products

  8. MadecassosideLow hazard

    Studied at combination clinical 0.1% + LAA 5%; stand-alone N/A

    • Reference: Haftek et al., 2008

    Pregnancy: not enough data · Listed in 578 products

  9. AsiaticosideLow hazard

    Studied at N/A

    Pregnancy: not enough data · Listed in 514 products

  10. Asiatic acidLow hazard

    Studied at N/A

    Listed in 465 products

  11. Copper Tripeptide-1

    Studied at N/A

    • Reference: Badenhorst et al., 2016
    • Reference: Badenhorst et al., 2016

    Pregnancy: not enough data · Listed in 374 products

  12. Madecassic acidLow hazard

    Studied at N/A

    Listed in 458 products

  13. Dimethicone

    Studied at N/A; kept apart from product evidence for medical silicone gels and sheets

    Film and hydration are mechanism candidates for hypertrophic scar management. An ordinary dimethicone lotion is not equated with a validated silicone scar device.

    Listed in 1,508 products

  14. Sodium DNA

    Studied at N/A; injection evidence excluded

    Pregnancy: not enough data · Listed in 366 products

  15. sh-Oligopeptide-1

    Studied at N/A

    Listed in 126 products

Which ingredients for acne scars and marks need a doctor?

5 ingredients here are prescription-only or for in-clinic use in the US. We list them so you can look them up; they never go into a PERBETE routine.

  1. All-trans-Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin)High hazardPrescription only (US)

    Retinoic Acid

    Studied at PIH original paper 0.1%, 40 weeks

    A PIH controlled study in Black patients. Because irritation can cause new PIH, the same concentration cannot be applied uniformly.

    • Reference: Bulengo-Ransby et al., 1993

    Pregnancy: advised to avoid · Not in our product list yet

  2. TrifaroteneHigh hazardPrescription only (US)

    Studied at clinical/drug 0.005% = 50 ug/g

    For the number of atrophic scars in patients with active acne and prevention of new scars. It does not mean complete restoration of already old, deep scars.

    • Reference: American Academy of Dermatology, 2024

    Pregnancy: advised to avoid · Not in our product list yet

  3. TazaroteneHigh hazardPrescription only (US)

    Studied at atrophic acne scar clinical 0.1%

    A 36-person split-face comparison. A small study against microneedling, not data confirming equivalence for all scars.

    • Reference: American Academy of Dermatology, 2024
    • Reference: Phillips et al., 2002

    Pregnancy: advised to avoid · Not in our product list yet

  4. HydroquinoneHigh hazardPrescription only (US)

    Studied at PIH stand-alone range not confirmed in this review, N/A; melasma comparison 3-4%

    Mainly extrapolated from other pigment disorders. The stand-alone effective range for PIH is N/A, and this differs from evidence for restoring scar structure.

    • Reference: Balina and Graupe, 1991
    • Reference: Espinal-Perez et al., 2004
    • Reference: Janney et al., 2019
    • Reference: Lim, 1999

    Pregnancy: advised to avoid · Not in our product list yet

  5. MequinolHigh hazardPrescription only (US)

    p-Hydroxyanisole

    Studied at PIH stand-alone effective concentration N/A; studies for other pigment disorders are in sections 2 and 4

    Mainly extrapolated from other pigment disorders. The stand-alone effective range for PIH is N/A, and this differs from evidence for restoring scar structure.

    • Reference: Fleischer et al., 2000

    Pregnancy: not enough data · Not in our product list yet

Which ingredients for acne scars and marks are advised against in pregnancy?

In our data, pregnancy guidance advises avoiding All-trans-Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin), Trifarotene, Tazarotene, and Hydroquinone. Each ingredient page names the source.

Pregnant or breastfeeding? Check new products with your doctor or midwife.

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