Skincare ingredients for rough, textured skin

Our research data links 20 ingredients to rough, textured skin. Strongest evidence comes first, each with the studies behind it.

A research list, not medical advice. If a skin condition worries you, see a dermatologist.

Which ingredients have the most evidence for rough, textured skin?

In our data, the strongest evidence for rough, textured skin is behind Glycolic acid, L-(+)-Lactic acid, and Salicylic acid.

  1. Glycolic acidModerate hazard

    Studied at clinical 8% leave-on

    • Reference: Stiller et al., 1996

    Pregnancy: considered fine · Listed in 334 products

  2. L-(+)-Lactic acidModerate hazard

    Lactic Acid

    Studied at clinical 8% L-form leave-on

    • Reference: Stiller et al., 1996

    Pregnancy: considered fine · Listed in 563 products

  3. Salicylic acidModerate hazard

    Studied at general drug 0.5-2%; professional peel 30%

    • Reference: Dayal et al., 2020
    • Reference: American Academy of Dermatology, 2024
    • Reference: Davies M et al., 1976
    • Reference: Bashir SJ et al., 2005

    Pregnancy: use with care · Listed in 608 products

  4. UreaLow hazard

    Studied at clinical 10%, 20%; combination moisturiser 2%

    The 10-20% studies include moisturising, differentiation and barrier mechanisms. Keep high-concentration keratolysis apart from daily use on the face.

    • Reference: Grether-Beck et al., 2012
    • Reference: Danby et al., 2022

    Pregnancy: considered fine · Listed in 161 products

  5. Retinal

    Studied at clinical 0.05%, 0.1%

    • Reference: Kwon et al., 2018

    Pregnancy: advised to avoid · Listed in 77 products

  6. All-trans-RetinolModerate hazard

    Retinol

    Studied at clinical 0.075%, 0.4%; Korean notice 0.075% equivalent

    • Reference: Kafi et al., 2007
    • Reference: Kikuchi et al., 2009
    • Reference: Korea Ministry of Government Legislation et al., 2023

    Pregnancy: advised to avoid · Listed in 352 products

  7. GluconolactoneLow hazard

    Studied at acne clinical 14%

    • Reference: Hunt and Barnetson, 1992

    Listed in 537 products

  8. Studied at clinical 8%, pH 3.8, uncontrolled

    • Reference: Green Edison and Sigler, 2008

    Listed in 57 products

  9. Mandelic acidLow hazard

    Studied at clinical 45% professional peel; leave-on N/A

    The 45% is from a peel study under supervision at a medical institution. It is not applied as a general home-use concentration.

    • Reference: Dayal et al., 2020

    Pregnancy: not enough data · Listed in 52 products

  10. Azelaic acidModerate hazard

    Studied at acne comedones 20% (drug formulation); cosmetic 10%: stand-alone clinical N/A

    Katsambas 1989 (n=289, 6 months): 20% azelaic acid normalised follicular keratinisation and reduced comedones as much as 0.05% tretinoin. This is evidence for keratin inside the follicle, not data measuring shedding of surface keratin.

    • Reference: Katsambas A et al., 1989

    Pregnancy: considered fine · Listed in 69 products

  11. Studied at N/A

    • Reference: Saint-Leger D et al., 2007

    Pregnancy: not enough data · Listed in 216 products

  12. Pyruvic acidLow hazard

    Studied at N/A

    • Reference: Berardesca E et al., 2006

    Listed in 4 products

  13. Sulfur

    Studied at OTC acne 3-10%; drug standard varies by formulation

    Gupta & Nicol 2004 review: sulfur reacts with keratinocytes to soften and shed keratin. There are no modern stand-alone RCTs; the evidence is older studies and combination formulations.

    • Reference: Gupta AK et al., 2004

    Listed in 11 products

  14. Citric acidLow hazard

    Studied at N/A

    • Reference: Bernstein EF et al., 1997

    Listed in 2,480 products

  15. Linoleic acidLow hazard

    Studied at N/A (concentration applied in the original paper not disclosed)

    Letawe 1998: topical linoleic acid reduced microcomedones by about 25% in 1 month. It is evidence for easing keratinisation inside the follicle, not for shedding of surface keratin, so it is rated low. (lin = linoleic acid, not linalool)

    • Reference: Letawe C et al., 1998

    Listed in 200 products

  16. Malic acidLow hazard

    Studied at N/A

    Listed in 53 products

  17. Studied at clinical 0.2% for 6 hours; 0.1% for 1-2 months

    • Reference: Meunier et al., 2022
    • Reference: CIR

    Pregnancy: not enough data · Listed in 742 products

  18. Tartaric acidLow hazard

    Studied at N/A

    Listed in 50 products

Which ingredients for rough, textured skin need a doctor?

2 ingredients here are prescription-only or for in-clinic use in the US. We list them so you can look them up; they never go into a PERBETE routine.

  1. AdapaleneHigh hazardPrescription only (US)

    Studied at drug 0.1%, 0.3%

    For follicular comedones and keratinisation. Not a general-purpose exfoliant for all skin roughness.

    • Reference: American Academy of Dermatology, 2024

    Pregnancy: advised to avoid · Listed in 3 products

  2. All-trans-Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin)High hazardPrescription only (US)

    Retinoic Acid

    Studied at clinical 0.025-0.1%; typical 0.05%

    Normalising epidermal differentiation and improving photoageing texture. A different speed and mechanism from an immediate acid peel.

    • Reference: Griffiths et al., 1995

    Pregnancy: advised to avoid · Not in our product list yet

Which ingredients for rough, textured skin are advised against in pregnancy?

In our data, pregnancy guidance advises avoiding Adapalene, All-trans-Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin), All-trans-Retinal (Retinaldehyde), and All-trans-Retinol. Each ingredient page names the source.

Use with care (a limit on strength, area or time): Salicylic acid.

Pregnant or breastfeeding? Check new products with your doctor or midwife.

Get a routine for your skin

A free 2-minute quiz picks products for your concerns and leaves out ingredients you want to avoid.

Red does not mean poison. Preservatives that stop a product going off, UV filters and fragrance can land on yellow or red depending on their score.

Green does not mean right for you. Skin and allergies differ from person to person. Treat the color as a starting point.

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